Hike Back to Refugio Paine Grande

I woke up in Shelter Grey to good news - though my feet were both sore, there was no appreciable swelling and I slipped into my boots without problems. The bad news was venturing outdoors only to find that the weather for the return hike to Paine Grande was going to be a redux of the day before. The continued high winds forced cancellation of my Plan A for the day, a sightseeing kayak trip to Grey Glacier offered by Big Foot Adventures Patagonia. Their facility is very close to Shelter Grey and they offer a 2.5 hour kayak trip very up close and personal to the glacier. The price is right, about $85, but the real benefit is slipping a kayak trip into your travel schedule without devoting a full day. Their website:

http://www.bigfootpatagonia.com/kayak.html

Leaving my pack in the lobby of the shelter, I continued north on the trail for about 30 minutes to a mirador overlooking Grey Glacier. Though the view was diminished by the weather, I have never met a glacier I didn't love. Too wet to stay long, I retraced my steps back to the lodge.

Grey Glacier from mirador north of Shelter Grey

Weather conditions meant hiking in Gore-Tex for the second straight day, but this time with the wind at my back which made things a bit more pleasant. I passed two other hikers on the trail only to have them pass me a few minutes later. After laughing about leapfrogging with them on the trail for the next hour, we decided to hike together. George, about my age, works in Mechanicsburg, PA (my favorite Navy duty station). He was hiking with his son Ian who lives in New Jersey. Hiking alone, but an extrovert by nature, I was glad to link up with them.

Grey Glacier from Lago Grey mirador

The scenery was day one on the trail in reverse. You get accustomed to this when hiking the W as three of the five days include significant backtracking. Wished I had even a modest background in geology as the layering and rock formations were so eye catching. Vegetation varied by elevation as you would expect, but I thought the sparse forests at the higher elevations were particularly beautiful. The only wild mammals I saw in Torres Del Paine were jack rabbits the size of dogs and one fair-sized armadillo. Lots of condors and smaller raptors.

Glacial river above Lago Grey

The 11 KM hike went pretty quickly. In addition to having the wind at our backs, the trail back to Paine Grande is mostly downhill. With the side trip to the Grey Glacier mirador factored in, it was a second straight 16 KM day. Arriving wet and tired at Paine Grande in the late afternoon, I decided to check for availability of a bed in the shelter before pitching my tent. Once again, I was in luck - a basic bed in a six person room for $43. George and Ian, who had considered continuing to Campamento Italiano, also decided to stop and take advantage of the unexpected vacancies at the shelter. The bathroom facilities left something to be desired, but I got a warm shower which was the top item on my list.

Mountains above Lago Grey

Forest Trail

Hollyhocks?

Keen on reducing weight as quickly as I could, I continued to subsist out of my pack. Breakfasts always the same - instant oatmeal with raisins and walnuts accompanied by a cup of coffee and a juice box from the camp store. Granola bars, hard rolls purchased in Puerto Natales, and peanut butter for lunch. Soup consisting of dehydrated refried beans and vegetables for dinner. Ate the last of apples and oranges I had purchased in Puerto Natales. The kitchen facilities at Paine Grande were much roomier and nicer than Grey. Cooking and eating meals in the camp kitchens is a social event, though maybe a bit too noisy for me.

Paine Grande Campground

Going through junk food withdrawals at this point, I began to patronize the camp stores for Snickers Bars and Peanut M&M's. I don't remember what they charged, but they were worth double the price. Did I mention that the camp stores also sold box wine and cold beer - good to know that they carry all of the staples! 

Back in the lodge after dinner, I found that 100% of the available chairs, tables, ledges, counters, door knobs and bed frames were being employed to dry wet clothing and boots. Relatively speaking, George, Ian and I were bone dry. Pay attention to the quality of hiking gear that you take to Patagonia.